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~ Confessions of a Known Bonnet-Wearer

Kitty Calash

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Making an Impression

15 Thursday Mar 2018

Posted by kittycalash in History, Living History, Reenacting, Research

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

John Wesley, newspapers, Philadelphia, print sellers, prints, women's work

Trade card for Dorothy Mercier, Printseller and Stationer; Etching with engraved lettering below. Print by Jean Baptiste Chatelain after Gravelot. 1745-1770. British Museum, D,2.3396

Dorothy Mercier: widow of an artist (and a painter herself), Mercier went into business after the death of her husband, Philip, first as a printseller and stationer, and later as a purveyor of artists’ supplies. Some of what she sold is listed below the vignette of a shop, and includes ‘all Sorts of Papers for Drawing, &c./ The best Black Lead Pencils, Black, Red & White Chalk./ Variety of Water-Colours, and Camels Hair Pencils./…English, Dutch, & French Drawing Paper, Abortive Vellum for Drawing,/ Writing Vellum, the Silk Paper for Drawing.’ She also sold “Continental prints” and “paintings of flowers in her own hand,” a pursuit considered suitable for ladies in the mid-18th century.

Evidence of widows taking over a husband’s print shop in the American colonies in the 18th century is harder to come by–there seems to be less specialization of retail sales in the colonies, certainly compared to London, which is one factor–though printers’ widows did assume their trade in Newport and Williamsburg, among other places. If we imagine a print shop in the colonies, what would we find for sale?

Nicholas Brooks’ ad from the Pennsylvania Packet of June 21, 1773 provides an answer:

Mrs. Yates in the character of Electra; Venus blinding Cupid by Strange (that’s a print by Robert Strange after Titian, no matter what glorious oddity you may imagine), and portraits of George Whitefield, John Wesley, and other religious luminaries. Whitefield and Wesley were popular Methodist ministers: Whitefield, the peripatetic evangelist, was the primary force behind the Great Awakening, and Wesley, despite his loyalty to King and Church, was an inspiration to the Revolutionary movement in America.

John Wesley after Nathaniel Hone
mezzotint, published 1770
© National Portrait Gallery, London NPG D4740

This print of Wesley is one I have seen in person, in a period frame, with a period backboard inscribed “Capt. Wm Noyes 1st Conts” and to be fair, it is one I have spent some time researching, so the titles in that Nicholas Brooks ad– which I was reading for another purpose altogether– were exciting to find. When I think about visual or print culture in the Revolutionary era, I try to imagine the ways in which people encountered imagery, and how they understood it. Wesley– and print shops– are one way I begin to fill in a picture of the past.

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19th Century Impressions & Costumes

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The 1797-1799 Black-and-Blue Grecian Gown

With Mrs B watching Miss B self-perambulate upon the sidewalk.
With Mrs B watching Miss B self-perambulate upon the sidewalk.
Behind the Counter
Behind the Counter

An 1804 Salem, Massachusetts Milliner

Salem Side Yard_2
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An 1812 Salem, Massachusetts Milliner, in a canezou based on the latest fashion plates

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The Chapeau au Velours

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The French Maid

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Sight-seeing at an 1826 Militia Muster

 

2015
2015
2016
2016

Tourist at the Winter Militia Muster, and the Architect’s Wife

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18th Century Impressions & Costumes

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Same years....
Same years….

Elizabeth Weed, Widow and Pharmacist in 1777 Philadelphia (for the Museum of the American Revolution)

2018's 1770
2018’s 1770
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Citizen of Boston, 1770

scuffle-in-the-square
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Citizen in Occupied Princeton, 1777

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Petty Sutler, Brandywine Battlefield

New York and Maryland
New York and Maryland
Back View
Back View

The “Nancy Dawson” Dress, 1780s mid-Atlantic


The North Carolina Petty Sutler at Fort Dobbs (linen gown and documented check linen bonnet)

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Version 2

Co-Proprietress, Sign of the Two Old Cows

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Bridget Connor, washerwoman of the 10th Massachusetts Reg’t

This is Bridget Connor, washerwoman and Bad Girl of the 10th Massachusetts Regiment.

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1790 Indian calico round gown, for the Brown family housekeeper.

The worst housekeeper in Providence discusses the over mantel with Mr Brown on the occasion of His Excellency George Washington’s visit in 1790.

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Completed Costumes/Impressions

Characters and Costumes from the mid- to late- 18th Century

Characters and Costumes from the early Federal Era

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Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity

21 Tuesday May 2013

Posted by kittycalash in Art Rant, Museums

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Exhibitions, exhibits, fashion, Impressionism Fashion and Modernity, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Museums, painting

The authentic matters, the real matters. It is different. Great art leaps from the surface of the paper and lives. Photographs may burn into the paper, but in that depth, they, too, live and glow.

Gallery 2: En Plein Air

Gallery 2: En Plein Air

The Met’s installation of Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity is worth seeing for the coalescence of so many real things in such a [relatively] small space. The monumental paintings, especially Monet’s Luncheon on the Grass in Gallery 2, En Plein Air, need to be seen for real, in the actual matter, to really be appreciated. The brushstrokes, the color, the enormity, all need to be in front of you to be appreciated—to be experienced. It doesn’t work any other way. (Click here for better views of the paintings and costumes; photography was not permitted.)

Gallery 5: The Dictates of Style

Gallery 5: The Dictates of Style

By way of an intimate contrast, consider the portrait of the gown and the gown itself in Gallery 5, The Dictates of Style. Here’s a lesson in the power of art, of paint, and an artist’s vision—and it’s Bartholomé, not Monet or some other genius, though a solid painter all the same.

Behold the cotton dress in conservator-approved lighting and yawn. Well designed, beautifully made, and real, right down to the stain on the upper bodice or collar, a pleat slightly misaligned at the hem. But yawn all the same. Now, the Bartholomé: bam! It’s not about the dress: it’s about light. This contrast is beyond a doubt one of the best lessons I have ever seen on the real nature of painting, and of impressionism: Light.

And if the authentic, the real is important, going to see the real thing is also important.

Here’s the Met’s catalog shot and record for a Degas drawing:

Degas

MMA, 29.100.185

And my iPad photo of the same drawing:

MMA, 29.100.185.

I’m not a wild fan of Degas; I’m more a Joseph Beuys/Caravaggio kind of art lover, but seen in person, this sketch was amazing.

This is an unfair comparison, and I had expected the catalog shot to be in color, because color is so important to this piece. In black and white, you miss the pop of the color contrast between the medium and the paper; you miss the bleed of the oil spot, more subtle in the black and white. You miss the way that image is fast and messy, the simmering tension between the artist and the sitter. Incredible as it seems, there is nothing like the real thing.

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