Tags
18th century clothes, common dress, Costume, dress, Historical Sew Fortnightly, living history, sewing, weekend
WIth the buttons to be installed
A Workman’s Jacket…not quite done. I had to work Saturday, so there went 7 hours; I got sick, I got tired, so it’s an almost, oh-so-close jacket. Buttons and buttonholes are all we lack. Of course, for a man’s jacket, that’s, you know, a significant lacking. However, I don’t want to have the crack-addled monkey buttonholes again, so I’m not doing them until I’m not rushed or distracted.
You’ve seen it already here, and know that it has chamois pockets. The Facts:
Buttons, with button holes to come
The Challenge: Peasants & Pioneers
Fabric: Blue wool broadcloth, with a blue and white striped linen lining
Pattern: Kannik’s Korner Double-Breasted Short Jacket
Year: It will be worn for 1775, but can be worn from 1760-1800.
Paul Sandby, A Sandpit. YCBA B1975.3.930
Notions: Linen thread, brass buttons, interfacing, cotton twill stay tape
How historically accurate is it? Well…the fit is a trifle off. It’s better than the base pattern, as I altered the shoulders, but it could use another round of alterations and fitting if the intended wearer would tolerate it. Still, like the man to the left, the kid is supposed to be working in this, so he’ll need some room.
The edges of the wool are unfinished, as I’ve seen in originals, with the lining turned back. It is all hand sewn. But, I don’t have any documentation for the striped linen lining, (it’s fine for quilted petticoats) so I would not go above 8/10 for this.
Stripes!
Hours to complete: I can remember about 18 to this point, and the buttonholes will add another 5 to 7. They’re about 20 minutes each, with 16 – 18 to do, plus sewing on buttons. Total time likely to be 22-24 hours.
First worn: To be worn April 13, 2013.
Total cost: $79.36 can be accounted for in materials. The broadcloth was purchased from Wm Booth’s remnants and the buttons are Burnley & Trowbridge: those I have numbers for. The striped linen, purchased at Jo-Ann Fabrics, was in the stash.
Kitty Calash 
About linings in jackets, I found some as I scanned an article by Paul Dickfoss, “Jackets of Runaways Advertised in Rhode Island” in the The Brigade Dispatch, Volume XXXII, Number 2, Summer 2002. (I found it in the Files on the 18cLife Yahoo group page). I didn’t read carefully enough to know if there were few, some or many, but I did see listings that specifically mentioned linings.
OK, I keep meaning to get into those files, and whoopsie, the day is over. Thanks for reminding me they’re there–so useful!
Here is one example of striped linings in a jacket Virginia Gazette (Purdie & Dixon), Williamsburg, February 26, 1767.
RUN AWAY from the subscriber in AUGUSTA, on the 17th of January last, a convict servant man named JOHN JONES, an Englishman, about 35 years of age, about 5 feet 7 inches high, of a fair complexion, and fair short hair; had on when he went away a blue homemade drugget jacket lined with striped linen, a blue broad cloth do. under it, leather breeches, coarse spun shirt made out of hemp linen, sheep gray stockings, and country made shoes; he has been a sailor, and I suppose will endeavor to get on board some vessel. I have heard that he has altered his name at Fredericksburg, and stole from thence a ruffled shirt, a pair of everlasting breeches, an old whitish coloured jacket, and two razors. Whoever takes up the said servant, and brings him to me, or John Briggs at Falmouth, or secures him in any county gaol so that I may get him again, shall have FIVE POUNDS reward, paid by me or John Briggs.
ANDREW BURD. N.B. As he is a very good scholar, it is imagined he will forge a pass.
Thanks for the links and the article. I’ll have to go looking for a RI or at least New England account. Extant garments will be hard to find, but ads are the place to look…which I hadn’t done, and thought only of the originals I’d seen. It’s good to be reminded of the paper sources. it will be a good hunt.
sod hubby – I’d keep that and wear it myself!
it looks lovely
Ha ha!! Thanks, but It’s for the kid, so it doesn’t quite fit but yes, I have been eyeing the Pyne drawings thinking I will make something warm for myself. There are some watercolors of women in jackets and that would beat a cloak for warmth and ease of use.
Love the break down on time and materials. It is so helpful! BTW, the jacket is beautiful.
Thank you! Yes, the HSF series has been reallyu enlightening.
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Hello! I am making this jacket but in green. I’m having trouble putting in the piece in the top front that folds over to be buttoned. The instructions about trimming this and cutting off that are unclear. I wrote to Kannik’s but have received no response. Have you pictures of it in progress?
Okay! Thanks for your patience. I’ve looked and I can’t find any. It’s possible I uploaded them to Flickr; I was still using it back then. I think you are talking about the front facing? How you treat it depends in part on what material you’re using.
Thanks for the reply! I sort of figured it out by trial and error. The parts about folding the top of the lapel facing over and making slits in the edge and cutting off the end didn’t make sense. I also thought that I would just sew the lapel facing to the lining but discovered the bight in the lining is smaller than the lapel facing. So I sewed the lapel facing to the front. I’m assuming that I top stitch the lining bight to the lapel facing when that time comes. At the moment I’m working on the button holes.