Tags
19th century clothing, checks, Costume, fashion, fashion plates, Federal style, living history, Making Things
One gets ideas. I often get ideas about checks. In particular, I get ideas about loud checks. The gown in the fashion plate is appealing, when you’re looking for checks, and all the more so when you know how similar it is to an extant garment in your actual location. The cornette I can do without– that’s the headgear, which looks like she’s crammed a sugar Easter egg on her head– but at least it could hide a short hair cut or the melting pomade of humid summer.
But wait! What check through yonder tastefulness breaks? It is the fashion plate, and the checked bonnet is my sun. My goodness, that bonnet on the lower left is satisfying. It appeals to me the most because it is by far the most check-heavy bonnet I’ve seen, and making it would not involve plaiting straw, which I know nothing about. It’s a direct trip to obnoxious via silk taffeta, and that’s a trip I’ll buy a ticket for.
Actually, as the result of a train ticket last August, I am the proud possessor of some delightfully bright lightweight cotton check in search of a fashion plate. The year I’m targeting (which is not 1808, but 1818) hasn’t yet provided published inspiration, but there are more places to search. In any case, an orange check gown with a blue check bonnet is pretty much crying out to be made. Bring your hanky, in case your eyes water, but make sure it’s check, too.
It’s a hair late for 1818, but Barbara Johnson’s Album has a cotton check documented (brown ground barred with white) for a gown in the Summer of 1821, and of course, there’s this one at the Met dated around 1820:
http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/107989?img=1&imgno=0&tabname=related-objects
But for what it’s worth, the Met gown looks an awful lot like this one from the Manchester Art Gallery, which is dated 1815-1818: http://manchesterartgallery.org/collections/search/collection/?id=1970.200
Thanks! I have a pretty good visual memory, but totally forgot about those two– clearly replaced them with some other bit of information.
The form, with the cross-over bodice, is probably more indicative of date than the fabric; there’s part of me that thinks (after seeing Ackermann’s samples) that the fashion plate artists were just too lazy to draw patterned fabric. I can probably use checks as much as I like, and really ought to worry about the validity of that bright, chemical orange. I will *not* name this is the Agent Orange dress….
It’s GREAT fabric. I’m a sucker for checks and plaids in all forms, and that fabric swatch is giving me major textile envy.
Tartan Creamsicle is the new Agent Orange, just in case you’re still shopping for snappy names. 🙂
I always thoroughly enjoy your blogposts. Your fabrics are beautiful and I’ve found two fashion plates, which might meet your expectations. Albeit they are not English/American, but from the German fashion magazin Journal für Literatur, Kunst, Luxus und Mode (a follow-up from Journal des Luxus und der Moden). Both plates are from the year 1817 (which might be okay for portraying the 1818s), the first one is a checked hat from December: http://zs.thulb.uni-jena.de/rsc/viewer/jportal_derivate_00215130/JLM_1817_0909.tif
And the second one is from May, it’s the striped one in the upper left corner, yet I think it would look wonderful in checks, too: http://zs.thulb.uni-jena.de/rsc/viewer/jportal_derivate_00215130/JLM_1817_0407.tif
Thank you, Sabine! I’ve seen the first image somewhere, but not the second– huzzay!
The first one, with the riding skirt, had me wondering if that was checked fabric or woven ribbons. What do you think? Somehow, the ribbon bow at the back of the hat suggested that it was integral to a woven structure, but I could be happy being wrong here.
Not that I don’t want to make that entire habit, because, hey, *neck stock* and masculine-styled short collar!
Luckily there are descriptions to all the fashion plates available, it says: “The headwear is a quite high so-called Glengary hat, made of blue satin, with light and dark blue smooth ribbon braided into checks, at the left side a cockade and on top a rich plume, which drops towards the face […]”
You’re right, it’s not a check fabric, but bands woven into a check pattern!
I’m glad you like the first hat, while most hats seem very “loud” towards the end of the decade, the May hat looks appealing even to modern eyes and it would look great with any patterned fabric.
I always thoroughly enjoy your blogposts. Your fabrics are beautiful and I’ve found two fashion plates, which might meet your expectations. Albeit they are not English/American, but from the German fashion magazin Journal für Literatur, Kunst, Luxus und Mode (a follow-up from Journal des Luxus und der Moden). Both plates
are from the year 1817 (which might be okay for portraying the 1818s), the first one is a checked hat from December: http://zs.thulb.uni-jena.de/rsc/viewer/jportal_derivate_00215130/JLM_1817_0909.tif
And the second one is from May, it’s the striped one in the upper left corner, yet I think it would look wonderful in checks, too: http://zs.thulb.uni-jena.de/rsc/viewer/jportal_derivate_00215130/JLM_1817_0407.tif
The bodice in this russian portrait looks to be pinned cross-over … and the hair style is later not early (to the best of my knowledge). Am trying to find the original source for this for more information.
That does look later! What a great portrait. Thank you!
http://history-of-fashion.tumblr.com/image/136394480139
Pingback: Criss Cross, or, My Checker’d Past | Kitty Calash