Tags
19th century clothing, authenticity, fashion, Federal style, interpretation, Jane Pabodie, portraits, Rhode Island, Rhode Island Historical Society
Mrs William (Jane) Pabodie. oil on canvas, 1813. RIHS 1970.60.2
Jane Jewett Pabodie, born around 1771, died 23 March 1846 is buried in Swan Point Cemetery on the Seekonk River in Providence. She was the wife of William Pabodie– which one? Well, it’s hard to tell until I really dig into the genealogy. At the moment I am so besotted with this image that all I can think about is what she’s wearing!
What she’s wearing….about that. I have some work– and some thinking– to do. The cap is slightly confounding. It’s a chance to learn a great deal more about early federal caps, which is good. I don’t understand it, which is unfortunate. The asymmetrical nature of the cap is new to me- or at least I cannot think of another example, so feel free to school me, people. But really: it is asymmetrical! With a ruffle on what is the right side of her head, and a… pinked? Van Dyked? Prairie pointed? band that runs from her left ear around to the back of her right ear? I’m confused. It would make more sense if the cap had slipped, but why would the Pabodies pay for a painting that recorded such a thing?
Honestly, I think the only way to really understand the cap is to make the cap. In muslin first, thankyouverymuch, I’m not that crazy.
Detail, Mrs William Pabodie. Oil on canvas, 1813. RIHS
The chemisette is more straightforward, being made of a sheer figured or embroidered cotton with a slightly gathered collar embellished with floral whitework embroidery. That I think can manage, at least in the basic construction (fabric, well, I’m looking).
Of course, why do I feel the need to manage all of this, with a deadline now less than eight weeks away? For a program, of course– I have only to write the copy for it. The idea (for me, anyway) is to replicate a portrait as closely as I can. Now, Mrs Pabodie and I are not exactly the same age, but I think I can pull this off…the cap, more troubling.
It’s an interesting project for me, not so much from the sewing point of view, but from a conceptual standpoint.
How close can I get? What does exactitude mean?
If I want to represent a character, what’s more important: understanding the clothing, or understanding Jane Pabodie? Constrained as I am by modern materials, unable to match these exactly, how do I navigate choices based on suppositions of what an artist meant to represent? Just my kind of conundrum.
Kitty Calash 
Maybe I have spent too much time looking at balls lately. But, the cap reminds me of the two piece ball construction where each piece is quasi-figure 8 wrapped into each other. It also makes me think of the tube biscuits that pop open. You know the way the cardboard wraps around itself?
Now, of course, I am mentally wrapping organdy around itself in pretty shapes.
I’m wondering if it’s not related to turbans and wraps. The pin ball idea would be a way to approach that construction. Thanks!
Now that I have paper cuttings blanketing my desk…. Do you think it could be a cone/paisley shape? The tail of the cone wrapping around the body, putting the tail just above her face.
With paper, I get a point in the back that would need to be gathered under the trim.
Hmmm…. I’ll have to try that. Thank you so much!
Woah, you folks are way ahead of me. I just looked and thought some kind of turban. Is the chemisette in silk? (Is that gorgeous brown gown in silk?)
Can’t wait to see this!
Nancy N
I think there was a very short fad for bonnets with asymmetrical brims – possibly related? I no longer remember which year it was, but it might be in my notes at home.
the decorative band is lace, specifically bobbin lace. I have that pattern; it was made in England and in Massachusetts in this time period, but the white was more commonly English production, and black silk more commonly in the MA. (The crown of the cap and her chemisette look more to be tambour or needlelace.)
Thank you so much! The chemisette and crown worry me a little less; muslin with passable embroidery sometimes turn up. For the rest, I’ll be looking for antiques, I think. At least I won’t need much!
Whoa! I took one look at that cap and my brain froze. It is unlike anything I’ve ever seen from the period…the marked degree of asymmetry alone is a huge surprise. Is that a roll of ribbon at the top front? And what’s going on with what looks to be a pleated and gathered Vandyked (is that a word?) trim? Can’t wait to hear more!
So bobbin lace was mentioned– and seems plausible– for the triangular trim. And Mimic of Modes suggests a brief window of asymmetrical bonnet fashions. I think it’s time to hit the 1812/1813 fashion plates– but yes! She’s pretty fabulous and just enough outside the usual to be very compelling.
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