What do you see and remember at events? At every event I go to, I see a range of impressions, or historic expressions.

unknown artist, 18th century, The Encampment in the Museum Garden, 1783, Aquatint, hand-colored, Yale Center for British Art, Paul Mellon Collection
There are Good things: a chintz bedgown that’s actually becoming; a checked suit I wish the kid would wear; the Ugly Dog Coat Mr S wants, the umbrella I want to make just for its lines.
The Bad and the Ugly are present, too.
Drawstring shift necks, makeup, infernal bodices, Birkenstocks, sofa-size prints… “light” troops with dining flies, tables, and tin roasters. Stores tents packed with plastic packaging. White “trews” baggy as painters pants, breeches reaching below the knee, haversacks as man-purses, tube socks, sneakers, peacock feathers on women’s hats, girls with undressed hair and no caps.
What is the meaning of these bodices and tube socks: are they the disease, or a symptom? I think they’re a symptom, telling us about a deeper problem.
If “authenticity” is a journey and not a destination, everyone starts this journey at a different point, and some people are more sophisticated consumers of knowledge than others. Hard as it is to fathom, some people—even with decades of time in this— don’t know any better. I’ve encountered half-correctly dressed wives of men who’ve been to Battle Road who didn’t even know workshops are available to help them with stays and gowns. The ignorance is not always willful, even if it seems that way.
Why are some women such a mish-mash of reasonably accurate jacket with acceptable petticoat worn without stays, a drawstring shift, an OK cap, modern glasses, and a purse?

Paul Sandby RA, 1731–1809, British, Washerwomen, between 1790 and 1805, Graphite and brown wash on moderately thick, cream, rough laid paper, Yale Center for British Art, Paul Mellon Collection
Do they not see the return on investment for stays and a gown and shoes and a cap and glasses and no makeup? Perhaps they don’t feel pretty when they venture out of their normal realm, and they’re only visiting, anyway. Is this the reason for the half-baked costume approach?
Or could it be that the unit commanders have set no standards for the women? That they don’t consider the women to really be unit members? Or that the women don’t consider themselves members? That they don’t matter the way the muskets do?
Could some women’s lack of authenticity—and by “authenticity” here I mean “period appropriate clothing”—be rooted in the phallocentric/musket-centric culture of the hobby? In some units, men and women seem to engage in parallel play, like toddlers, where the men field in the foreground, and the women cook in the background (women on the field is an issue I will not take up here). The men are in charge, making the decisions: the women, and what they wear, appear not to matter, and are nearly invisible. I think this is rooted in basic misogyny and the riptide of the hobby’s boys-club attitude.
If misogyny is part of why women perpetuate inauthentic impressions, then having women invested in their units and roles, with more research and more care, might be threatening to men who want weekends for themselves and their ‘war games.’ But I believe that without a significant investment by women, and by units in women’s roles, this hobby won’t survive, and it’ll be a lot less fun and educational for everyone.
That means, of course, that I think units will have to allow women a voice, and develop standards for women as well as men. Those units with the farthest to “travel,” authenticity-wise, will need to build up stores of wearable, authentic women’s clothing to loan, or include women’s workshops in their schedules. If they don’t want women and/or families participating, then that has to be clear, too, and women who do want to participate will have create their own civilian units. (I don’t have solutions for all of these issues.)

attributed to Hubert-François Gravelot, 1699–1773, French, active in Britain (1733–1745), Matrimonial Fisticuffs, with a Portrait of the Pugilist John Broughton, in the Background, undated, Watercolor, pen and black ink and graphite on medium, slightly textured, beige laid paper, Yale Center for British Art, Paul Mellon Collection
When the men around them don’t value or encourage their participation, and when units do not have men and women as equal members with clear standards for both, I think you end up with poor impressions—particularly women—and camps full of crap. These are symptoms of a larger problem of misogyny and silence.

Anthony Highmore, 1719–1799, British, Group of Three Ladies, undated, Watercolor, pen and brown ink, and graphite on medium, blued white, moderately textured laid paper, Yale Center for British Art, Paul Mellon Collection
In recent years there have been calls for greater attention to standards for women by unit commanders. But I think that we should go further, and call for greater participation of women in real leadership roles in the hobby. That’s when you will see real change, not just in clothing, but in presentations.
And that is where I think the future of this hobby lies: in recognizing that living history events are mobile museums, not just mobile monuments.
To get more complete, inclusive and, I think, authentic, experiences will take more inclusive leadership structures, from unit memberships to the boards of umbrella organizations. That would be one small step towards bringing leadership and management into line with the modern world and current best practices in management for cultural and historic organizations. Because that is what the umbrella organizations have become. The boys’ historic shooting clubs have grown up, and it’s time to let the girls play for real, and to value women’s roles past and present.
I agree.
Wow!
I am sorry to have to be the one to tell you this, but people were saying and writing these exact thoughts, almost word for word, at least 30 years ago. Not much has changed, apparently. This is one of the reasons why I am a civilian reenactor.
You don’t have to apologize: and I’m not surprised in the least. Not a lot has changed, it’s true, and I prefer civilian living history, too.
People have been saying these things for a long, long time. That doesn’t make it any less pertinent today. In fact, we really ought to be revisiting issues like this on a regular basis, to see how far we’ve come and how far we have left to go. Thank you for raising this into the consciousness!
I think money or lack of same is part of the problem and some don’t like change. I agree with you totally, however.
Money is often used as a reason, but I think incremental changes can probably be made economically. The problem is when things are wholesale wrong– that’s hard to fix without cash! Not sure how to fix that, except by pooling resources. That said, I’m a tall woman, and the tallest in my unit, so I have to make my stuff and can’t really borrow things without generating much hilarity!
I am one of the ladies in sofa-sized prints and tube socks, but I do not consider myself a reenactor by any means. My presence at historical events is usually strictly as a visitor, if at all. I usually limit myself to “costuming” events rather than reenactments to avoid any offenses. I wonder how many of my fellows are present at events because they are humoring a spouse, merely want to have fun and play dress-up for a while, or simply do not have the passion for accuracy others do. Many have limited means or skills in addition to a limited education of history. You are right: more workshops are needed, especially beginner ones. Many modern ladies have sewn nary a stitch in their life by hand or by machine, much less know how to drape or embroider. Therefore, it’s important to approach folks gently. As insulted as more dedicated reenactors may be by others’ costume ignorance (willful or otherwise), slapping on extra rules comes across as snobbish–an attempt to weed out undesirables rather than bolster community participation.
The problems you mention are two-fold: the “boys” underplaying/ignoring the roles of women and participating ladies with limited skills/means. I know most men start off with a kit list or a loaner when they join a unit. I love your idea for a similar lady’s loaner kit! It would allow women to see, feel, and experience the clothing so they know how it should feel and fit. Perhaps a “Welcome to the Hobby” workshop where they are given a set of simple patterns and have a sew-along? There was an 1840s group that did that and it was very successful! At the end of the series, every women had one whole outfit from the inside out. As for the ever-present misogyny in reenacting, just remind the boys that everyone likes to watch the battles, but if the event has an open camp, families inevitably wind up wandering in and they love seeing and asking questions about (frequently while awkwardly touching) EVERYTHING. And who are they seeing and asking (and, heaven forbid, awkwardly touching)? The ladies. And who, therefore, should be well-informed and considered vastly important to the accuracy of the display? The ladies.
Liz articulated everything on my mind and then some!
Well, if you’re wearing what I’ve seen on your blog as a visitor, you don’t fall into the category same sofa and tube sock category (the socks being a thing that, with stripes at the knee, bug me wa-a-a-y more on guys) and you’re super clear about what you are doing, and though we have never met, I suspect you project that. We’re doing different things, and I respect that. I try hard to respect the bodice-wearing and spinning-wheel toting crowd, but it’s tough to wrap my brain around.
I think you are so right about being respectful, and being kind. I do not approach people I don’t know: I’ve had it happen to me, and let she who is perfect in her impression cast the first stone. I think that’s a short line.
Your point about who’s in camp? The ladies! Who’s on the sidelines? The ladies!They are all positioned to be interpreters and to explain everything that’s happening and to engage the public (see Rumors of Bore). Anyway, thank you for your comment! I really appreciate the thoughtful and lively discussion.
Once I was chatting with a friend at an event–our husbands were on the field and we’d retired to a garden for a stroll and some shade. She said something along the lines of, “They certainly are lucky, having wives who support them in this expensive, exhausting hobby, who cook and prep and do loads of laundry and unpacking when they get home.”
I was shocked.
I do this hobby *for me* and I love that my whole family participates–but yes, for so many women, they are in a self-cast “support” role that is endorsed by their units and even organizations. And maybe because I don’t see myself “supporting” anyone but doing a hobby I love, I have sought leadership roles. This does seem to vary by unit and by organization–the leadership in our unit is actually heavily female, and is separate from the field chain of command. Which is vital for making this work and staying authentic, FWIW. (Also, some very talented field leadership have no admin skills and vice versa.) Want a practical change? Separate your field and admin leadership. It’s not always easy to negotiate who’s responsible for what, but the women end up more valued and invested.
There is resistance to women in leadership–sometimes overt, that they “don’t get” the “important” parts of reenacting (you know, muskets and stuff–because of course women can’t learn about those, too…), but sometimes it is a weird undercurrent that I think comes out of doing it one way for so long. The best solution? More women in leadership roles. Ah, therein lies the trouble…
Fortunately for me, in my home unit, the management is really pretty flat. We’re a small group, and I find the guys in this unit really respectful of every member. So that’s great for me.
It’s in the larger units where I think there may be more problems. In some units, the commanders won’t even talk to me about more than meals, and what the heckers, I actually enjoy primary source research and military history. That’s an attitude I find unacceptable, and makes it difficult to imagine moving the hobby forward.
I think that the Big Three would be well advised to include more women in voting roles on their boards. Not just parallel, but equal. Decisions can be larger than the quantity of powder to buy. Events could have more in-depth planning of camp activities. There are women out there working hard on laundress and petty sutler impressions that are ideal for supporting Rev War events. That kind of thinking and planning could– I hope–reinvigorate a hobby by making new roles for women, and deepening interpretation and authenticity by creating things to do other than cook.
Thank you, as always, for your thoughtful comment.
I suppose I have a different perspective, too, as I’m not active in the Big Three–as a Midwesterner, I’m with the NWTA (aka the redheaded frontier stepchild of Rev War reenacting, ha). We do have women in admin leadership roles. It’s even pretty balanced at the organizational level–the Board is somewhere between 40/60 and 50/50 and the staff officers are typically pretty evenly split between men and women as well. We have had female commanders (admin, not field–it is split). And I think it’s an awesome thing–to have those female outlooks and the push for things like “let’s do a gown workshop and make it a priority” and having spare kits for women and children and the like. Of course, there is still the occasional situation where “why is this lady talking to me, this is man stuff” awkwardness happens, but it doesn’t happen often. All that to say–it can be done. It can even be done successfully, in my view 🙂
Woman hating has no place in our “hobby”. There are many events that would not happen without women taking the initiative to make them happen. The “hobby” does hate anyone that does not take it seriously, woman or man, however.
Hi, Bob! Yes, I agree. And I think that our unit does a really fantastic job of welcoming all kinds of people, men, women and children (like mine, and Mr HiWell). It’s a loose structure, but it works well for us and I deeply appreciate it.
I am the woman with non-period glasses and sometimes no stays. I try to be as authentic as possible, while remembering that this a hobby and I’m a single parent. I have to make choices: do I want to purchase “period” glasses to wear for a few events a year or glasses that I can wear all the time. I’ve been in the process of making stays for the past 4-months, unfortunately they have been put on the back burner because real life gets in the way. I am slowly getting everything I need as close to authentic as I’m able and my unit is very understanding.
I will close by saying that everyone in the hobby is wonderfully patient and helpful.
I’m very glad to hear you have an understanding unit. And stays are a major pain to make– but women can wear bedgowns without stays and that’s super. Women in riding habits without stays– that’s not okay. I choose not to wear my glasses, which is getting more problematic. My son sometimes forgets his repro glasses and since he is on the field, off his goes in modern wire rims when he must see. So I get it. But the women who don’t have stays or period glasses after decades in the hobby are not doing what you’re doing… and that’s the difference.
When I see you at Newport for the Stamp Act Protest, I’d love to continue this conversation in person. You’ll find me with the sailors, and my family among the lower sort. I’m now the president of my primary Continental unit, and what you have raised about misogyny is also very much on my mind.
Tim,
Thanks for your content. Stamp Act is still iffy for me based on prep for a big new year in September, but I would very much like to discuss this in person. Let’s see what we can do.
Thanks!
Kitty
My newest realization clothing wise is why make a “for now” or “will have to do” outfit out of practice fabric that “kind of works,” saying you will eventually get the better fabric because you can’t afford the better fabric. But if you’re buying two sets of fabric – isn’t that just more money in the long run? I’m guilty of this – I made some striped cotton petticoats. However, I’ve almost fully transitioned to wool and linen because 1) I feel safer in it around the fire and 2) it drapes better and 3) it is warmer/cooler in certain temps. But why then did I initially spend so much money on those pretty cotton stripes!!?? No idea. *sigh*. I think having “ladies kits” are a swell idea. Now I’m trying to figure out what other eras I can use the fabric for and take apart the old petticoats. And huzzah for more women in more leadership roles. I think women just need to start creating our own events for ourselves, invite everyone, and if the men decide they want to come and play with us, then they can too. 😉
Yes, oh double yes! “I think women just need to start creating our own events for ourselves, invite everyone, and if the men decide they want to come and play with us, then they can too. ;)” So agree with you. Be the change you want to see, right? I’ve been thinking for a long time that those of us who want to play differently need to make our own fun, and it is starting to happen.
I also think that the Big Three umbrella organizations should have leadership that better reflects a) current demographics and organizational management trends and b) actual participants. That means more women. I suppose in the US, we’d only get 77% of any equivalent leadership role– but that would be more recognition than I see on the field or at meetings.
The unit I belong to (if they’ll still have me after this!) is surprisingly equitable, and more so than others I have seen. There’s a lot of listening and consensus building. Our meetings take a long time, but so far, I’ve seen/heard every voice listened to. That’s how I like to manage people who work for/with me– so I’m deeply grateful. A lot of the unit-level happiness for people is in finding like-minded folks to be with.
I get that these are “military” organizations– but the current US military has women in command roles. I’m not asking for women to portray men in kit on the field here: I’m asking for background roles. (And at some point I will touch that third rail of women on the field, but not this day!)
Thanks, too, for your comments on fabric. Excellent points. It’s cheaper to do it correctly from the start. 🙂 And then, you start to build loaner garments. I hope you can recycle your fabric in some way. I know I do!
Here here!
It’s a problem across all periods, I’ve noticed. I’ve started a Facebook group called “Early 19th Century Life” in order to try to build a corps of civilians taking accuracy seriously in the 1812/Regency domains, btw – love to have you there, even though you don’t focus on that period a majority of the time!
I’m in! Thank you! It’s where I think I’m heading (the time period, I mean).
I’ve recently left the 19th century (where I do almost exclusively civilian events) and jumped into WWII reenacting, where I’ve experienced something similar to what you’re describing. This was an eloquent discussion of the topic, thank you!
Just as frustrating–this impression of reenacting as a boys’ club has trickled to the public. I take pride in how much research I’ve done into my impression, but at my most recent event people would talk to my male friends about history and then ask me where I bought my shoes (etc.).
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