Or, They’re Clothes, not Costumes.
This past weekend, I had a conversation with a friend about requests to borrow “costumes” we’ve made, sometimes for school children to wear, sometimes for movies, and sometimes for parties. We generally say no: these are hand-sewn clothes, and the replacement cost would be ridiculous– plus, we like them and wear them.
I hand sew because I get better control, but also because there were no sewing machines in the 18th and early 19th centuries. To get a garment right, you have to hand sew it, and that’s expensive. I took the time once to figure out what a set of clothes for the Young Giant cost– much to my dismay, and eventually, to his, as I became even more insistent that the garments be treated with respect.
Last year, I sent the Young Mr off to Battle Road in a new suit, and the whole business of what he was wearing was quite expensive. Using $25/hour as a base for labor, here’s how the kid’s Battle Road suit breaks down:
Coat Labor: $1125 (estimated)
Coat fabric: $62.50
Buttons: $10.50
Coat lining & cutting: $90.00
Workshop: $125.00
Total: $1413
Let that one sink in for a while, will you? The 16-year-old boy ran around in a $1400 coat. Oh, and the breeches. Here they are.
Breeches labor: $300 (estimated)
Breeches fabric: $31.25
Buttons: $9.00
Total: $340.25
The blue suit is now up to $1753.25
Let’s add the shirt.
Labor: $375.00 (estimated)
Fabric: $30.00
Buttons: $3.00
Total: $408
Shoes, hat and stockings:
Shoes: $119
Hat: $125
Stockings: $50
Neckcloth: $18
Glasses: $29.00
Lenses: $30.00
Total Accessories: $371
Grand total, with labor: $2532.25
Grand total without labor: $732.25
This wasn’t cheap either.
So think about this the next time you attend an event with a lot of well-made garments: you are standing amid a lot of labor and love.
Sewing is a fairly simple enterprise (you’re pushing thread in and out of fabric, after all), but it takes practice to develop fine skills and speed. A well-made garment will never be cheap. The best investment you can make in your wardrobe is to invest in your skill set, and learn to sew.
Kitty Calash 
Boggles my mind that somebody would ask to borrow it. I’d never let anybody borrow my period clothes.
It’s like sex– If I love you enough, I would give it to you, happily. If I don’t love you enough, then there isn’t money enough in all the world, no, not even for just a short while.
what a Great analogy, may I borrow it? Pun intended.
It didn’t totally originate with me. I am expanding on something I encountered, several times, on Ravelry.
So, sure, help yourself!
I use a machine, because what I make are frankly costumes, and for the theatre, not for living history, but of course they have a pretty fair amount of hand stitching in there too. I am so impressed at the level of dedication and sheer sweat equity you all employ. (So interesting that the costs of labor vs. materials have flip flopped since the 18th century!)
Beautiful suit! Looks just grand on him!
Auntie Nan
I make Italian renaissance and Norman era clothing. On one gown I spent what worked out to be about two weeks worth of hours hand sewing fresh water pearls. That didn’t include sewing grommet holes, hand pleating the skirt, trimmings and ties. There is far too much involved in these clothes to allow someone who considers them to be “costumes”, to borrow them.
I’m sorry, but I believe that is a costume. Whatever negative aspects you may associate with the term (i.e., Dracula, Frankenstien, et al.), a costume is exactly what it is. It’s a fine costume, and I use the term with no denigration whatsoever, but it is certainly a costume. If it were mine and I had spent so much on its fabrication, I would not lend it to anyone.
I once heard someone say Costume implies appearance and nothing about substance. A costume could have hidden zippers and still be considered a great costume if they can’t be seen, because only the appearance matters.
the term costume is sometimes applied to garments in a historical context by the people who wore them- usually in reference to an entire suit, so I never have a problem with it.
we take clothes for granted now because we have many of them and they’re cheap. personally I find it disturbing, its a deep and very suspect character flaw in many cases because it can transfer to manners – lack of respect for surroundings can equal lack of respect for others.
I don’t lend out costumes, not since about thirty years ago when the person I loaned a heavily embroidered anglo saxon dress too promised she wouldn’t smoke wearing it…and then it came back with a cigarette burn and no apology.
and don’t get me started on books
That’s about half of what my Jacobite kit runs
And FWIW your pricing is extremely generous in today’s economy. Someone running an independent business generally needs to charge $50-60/hr to make ends meet. Hard to get even “progressive” “Hard Core” etc folks to understand this.
I agree with opus angelicanum’s comment about the semantics of “costume” vs “clothing” The OED sums this up: Costume – “A set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period”
How do you find someone to pay you $50-60 for hand sewing (or even $20)? Nice work if you can get it. I sew for my family cause I could never afford to buy even the cheaply made inaccurate stuff.
Nobody pays me– I don’t sew for money, only for myself.
I will only lend out a few items of kit, clothing, etc.. to my best friend, who I know will care for my gear..mostly hats, accoutrements and outer wear.. Many of my items, I sewed and have worn for over 30 years, so if I were to, say, blow-out a pair of breeches, or such..it would be ‘on me’, but would be very angry if someone else did it, while wearing my stuff. Most 18thc clothing is so form-fitted, that it can’t take someone else’s body size or shape, if even a bit bigger. I’m just very guarded with my gear..and don’t want anyone else to wear it..since ‘it’s mine’ and many of my friends and fellow re-enactors have associated the whole ensembles..(suits, hats, accoutrements, etc)..with me, and my ‘personas’…. I have no problem wearing some used gear I find at a re-enactment ‘blanket sale’..so I’m not a ‘germaphobe’ or something (and I buy most of my modern 21st clothing at thrift shops, etc..).
I paid $8 for my daughter’s prom dress at a thrift store, yet purchased an 18th century linen gown for her costing $180. I just spent $144 on fabric at William Booth, Draper. We have our priorities in this house!
No pun intended, but I think Karen C and I are cut from the same cloth!