Tag Archives: plans

One Coat Two Coat Red Coat Green Coat

15 Saturday Nov 2014

Posted by in Clothing, Making Things, personal

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1813 Bonnet of untrimmed velvet, Redingote of Merino
1817 Velvet bonnet and broadcloth coat

I cannot manage to find the button I need to sew onto my real-world everyday winter coat, but I’m pondering and plotting how much broadcloth a Redingote (Redingcoat or Redingcote) would require, and internally debating the merits of red versus green.

Greatcoats have their attractions, and while Mr S would undoubtedly enjoy the warmth of a greatcoat, with a February 14 program in the offing, I am pondering a greatcoat of my own.

I can rationalize [almost] anything, but a Redingcote is a stretch even for me, despite that February program (indoors). I suppose the real appeal of one of these coats, aside from the pleasure of handling delicious green or red wool, is the challenge of making one. I have even found a front view to aid in the patterning.

1813 Hat of velvet and broadcloth coat

What stops me? Some unfinished projects, and a certain feeling of unease about buying quantities of expensive wool. I have two yards of dark green broadcloth, but I’m pretty certain that I will need three to make even the shorter red coat. Without making a firm resolution, I had determined that I wanted to sew down my stash–and I suppose the answer is to sew it down, or put it on Etsy. Or to buy the wool, make the coat, and wear it in the winter. It would be a spur to winter program ideas, after all.

Now, if only I could find the missing button from my winter coat…

Fewer Words

11 Tuesday Feb 2014

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unknown artist, A Country Woman, , Pen and black ink and watercolor on laid paper laid down on a contemporary(?) mount, Yale Center for British Art, Paul Mellon Collection. B1975.4.46

Gentle readers, I am indeed posting less often. I don’t have less to say (take pity on Mr S), but I have less time.

I have a new routine, which includes a morning workout and more cooking in the evening. That workout takes up the time when I used to write (and sew—I’m behind there, too). But I need to get stronger, because in about three months (83 days according to the countdown app) I’m getting a new left hip. Yay!

Three years ago, I got a new right hip and I love it. Even though it took a while to get used to (which was really about bone growing around the implant so it wouldn’t be so cold in the winter), the lack of pain was a terrific change.

18 months ago, my surgeon told me plainly that it was just a matter of time before the left one would need to be done. We spent some time looking at the x-rays in January, and it’s a fine thing to see the bone lumps that thunk and clunk as you move. Oh, that’s why climbing stairs is noisy and painful… But stronger I must get, so for while, more Pilates and fewer paragraphs.

Projects and Deadlines

24 Thursday Oct 2013

Posted by in Clothing, Events, Living History, Making Things

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Here’s what needs to be made, or that I want to make, in the coming months.

Yes, there is a tent on that list. Madness, but what a thing to make! There are also some wool items for November, because Fort Lee tends to be cold.

Project For Due Date Event
Red wool short cloak Kitty 11/22/13 Fort Lee
White shirt, coarse Young Mr 11/22/13 Fort Lee
Blue wool gown Kitty 11/22/13 Fort Lee
Red wool cross-bar kerchief Kitty 11/22/13 Fort Lee
“Quilted” silk petticoat Kitty 11/22/13 Fort Lee
Silk Sacque & petticoat Kitty 1/15/14 Grand Ball, Stetson Hall
Pocket hoops Kitty 1/15/14 Grand Ball, Stetson Hall
Sleeve ruffles Kitty 1/15/14 Grand Ball, Stetson Hall
Fancy cap Kitty 1/15/14 Grand Ball, Stetson Hall
Wool frock coat, 1770-1780 Mr S 1/15/14 Grand Ball, Stetson Hall
Silk waistcoat, 1770-1780 Mr S 1/15/14 Grand Ball, Stetson Hall
Plush breeches, 1770-1780 Mr S 1/15/14 Grand Ball, Stetson Hall
White shirt, fine Mr S 1/15/14 Grand Ball, Stetson Hall
Breeches or trousers Young Mr 4/18/14 Battle Road*
Waistcoat (striped, sleeved?) Young Mr 4/18/14 Battle Road*
10MA Regimental (1781) Mr S 4/25/14 BAR School of Instruction
Wool waistcoat (white, welted buttonholes) Mr S 4/25/14 BAR School of Instruction
Knapsacks Mr S 4/25/14 BAR School of Instruction
Tent Young Mr 6/1/14 Monmouth*
Kettle bag(s) Camp 6/1/14 Monmouth*
10MA Regimental (1781) Young Mr 6/1/14 Monmouth*
Wool frock coat, 1790-1800 Mr S 10/24/14 What Cheer Day
Breeches or trousers, 1790-1800 Mr S 10/24/14 What Cheer Day
Green wool Spencer Kitty none None
Shirt/chemisette Kitty none None
*Presuming it happens again

A Swedish Spencer

11 Friday Oct 2013

Posted by in Clothing, Historical Sew Fortnightly, Making Things

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The Swedish Spencer

The Swedish Spencer

Because I lack good sense, I have fixated upon this Spencer from a museum in Lund. I have inflicted it upon people who have no particular interest in women’s wear, and extracted opinions on the fabric. Shameless, really. But I love the simplicity of this garment, and have therefore closed my eyes, written a check for some Kochan & Phillips bottle green broadcloth so that I can pet the wool to cheer myself up while patterning this beast.

To be fair, I have a Spencer half-patterned, and need “only” to work on the sleeves and collar. I have a sense, from examining a friend’s frock coat, of how to construct this stand-and-fall collar. Pad stitching, here I come. I enjoy the challenge of sleeves and hope this will not break me of that. So far, I have not been able to find a photo of the back of this lovely garment, so I’ll have to extrapolate from other examples.

I’d thought about making this for the Historical Sew Fortnightly # 21: Colour Challenge Green, but it took me too long to commit to the K&P wool, and at that price, you can bet I’ll make a careful muslin. While I’m not certain when or where I will wear this, I already know that I will wear it with my black petticoat and green boots, and will have to make a shirt to go under the petticoat, which will be its own challenge.  

Puffy sleeves aren’t my thing, and they won’t fit under these trim Spencer sleeves, but there is at least one extant example of a long-sleeved shirt-like garment. I expect I will feel about chemisettes much the way I feel about caps…but in the end, it will be worth all the tiny hems and the muslins. After all, the Spencer has a huge bonus: it closes with clasps so there are no buttonholes!

The 1763 Project

09 Thursday May 2013

Posted by in 1763 Project, Clothing, Living History, Making Things, Reenacting

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Doll, 1763. V&A, T19.36, T19P.36

Doll, 1763. V&A, T19.36, T19P.36

Sweet, right? Who wouldn’t want to look (or at least dress–those pupils suggest something untoward, chemically) like this doll? And she’s 1763. Of course, my friend DC didn’t get the grant he applied for, so he has to try again.

Still, it seems the event will go ahead and I am stumbling on under the impression that I will have a chance to make myself something lovely for August. Of course, that comes only after I make the regimental menswear, so why am I typing and not backstitching? Because after a while, it’s just plain dull. Plus, doll! Printed cotton! Lightweight and lovely! And look: a hairstyle I can manage: birds’ nest.

Nice Petticoat.

Nice Petticoat.

What I like about this doll are her details. (The better written description is on the V&A website, but the better photos are at VADS.) She’s wearing a sacque (known also as a sack-back robe or a robe a la Francaise) and matching petticoat, a green silk quilted petticoat, a white linen petticoat, and a pocket that matches her gown.

The blue silk of her stomacher is used as trim on her sleeves, which are ornamented with flounces. Hallie Larkin goes into this well on her blog post about Changes in Cuffs. And that’s what stops me: the fine linen and the lace.

An actual reproduction, no less.

An actual reproduction, no less.

The gown itself, even a sacque, seems like something I can manage. (And yes, this is but one more piece of cotton sacque evidence.) A very similar fabric is available and if this sells out, there are variations on the theme. The blue silk stomacher can be managed: I have taffeta sources, and from making bonnets have learned the basics of the serpentine designs. I could make that. But those flounces–what about those?

Here she is from the V&A, ca. 1760, T.19-1936

Here she is from the V&A, ca. 1760, T.19-1936

Here’s the V&A description: “lace and cotton elbow ruffles.” Hmm. Cotton, perhaps that I can find in a fine, sheer weave. But the lace?

The more I think about this lovely gown, about the materials, and who would wear it, the more I think I’m better off sticking with lightweight wool and Sandby’s cherry seller...

I love a good challenge, but the lads need regimentals and their own 1763 apparel. Sandby’s woman wears a gown I’ve made before, so construction screw-ups will be fewer time will be shorter. And at least we can all wear whatever I make for various other celebrations and riots. New England had them in abundance in the 1760s and 1770s.