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~ Confessions of a Known Bonnet-Wearer

Kitty Calash

Tag Archives: sewing project

The Very Specific Spencer, Finished!

11 Tuesday Nov 2014

Posted by kittycalash in Clothing, Fail, Living History, Making Things, Reenacting

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

1790s, 1797, 18th century clothes, 18th century clothing, fashion, Federal style, sewing, sewing project, Spencer, Spencers, style, What Cheer Day, wool

Ta da!
JDK_8197_1

Yes, finished! And just in time, too! The braid arrived in the mail three days before the Spencer was wanted, and fortunately I had finished the garment by then, and the baking could take care of itself after a while, and I managed not to get eggs beaten with sugar on any lovely wool or mohair.

JDK_8210_1

I think it looks well enough with the gown and bonnet, though I am fairly certain the darts are too far to the sides in this iteration. How that happens when you use the same pattern twice I do not know.

You may recall that this is the Spencer where I demonstrated an uncanny ability to sew a collar on upside down. The braid went on pretty quickly, again proving that good materials make good sewing.

As mentioned previously, the cuffs are pieced, but this is a perfectly accurate way to deal with a shortage of material and/or cuffs.

I’m fairly pleased with how it turned out, and very pleased with how warm it is.  Over the cotton gown, the Spencer was plenty warm– and I certainly wished I had it after we left the house and went down to the river!

On the whole, I suppose I’m pleased…as pleased as I ever am …which means you can expect pattern revisions in the future!

 

 

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Material Girl

05 Sunday Oct 2014

Posted by kittycalash in Making Things, Museums, Philosophy

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

advice, fabric, scissors, sewing, sewing project, strategic fabric reserve, tools

Yes, I am a material girl. The Strategic Fabric Reserve has grown beyond the allotted cupboards into plastic containers hidden under living room furniture and my desk. Reader, it’s true: I have a fabric problem.

But here’s the thing: you want to work with the best materials you can afford, and that means fabric, scissors, needles, thread, even measuring tapes. As a carpenter I know once said, “Life’s short; buy a good hammer.”

Just enough!

Just enough!

I’m currently working with a remnant of wool camblet from a friend’s stash, left over from making someone else’s coat. There’s just enough to make me a Spencer (with a little perfectly-accurate cuff piecing), and I’m finding that running the needle through the wool is like a knife through butter. Baby, it’s smooth.

And that’s the thing: working with better materials is actually easier than working with lesser goods. Maybe you’re buying from the remnant table (I know I do): just buy the best stuff you can afford, and as much of it as you afford.*

It’s taken me a while to learn this, and I’ll confess: I still have IKEA furniture, because I still have a teenager living at home, and three insufferable cats. But we swap out as we find affordable better things, because they are more beautiful and more pleasing.

Shears: former fabric and current fabric.

Shears: former fabric and current fabric.

You can do the same with your sewing (or cooking or carpentry or cat husbandry) tools. My former fabric shears finally gave up after 15 years; I replaced them with better Ginghers (thank goodness for coupons) and downgraded the formerly “best” scissors to pattern-cutting duty. I have small thread scissors for home, and scissors for events that I’ll shed fewer tears over if I lose, because event sewing is often mending and not garment construction.

Second best for events; best for home.

Second best for events; best for home.

Buy it once: that’s an ideal that can be hard to achieve in reenacting. Research moves on, everybody makes mistakes**, but you can never go wrong buying the best you can afford. Ease of use and finished beauty will make it worthwhile.

*They laughed when I bought that striped velvet from Wm Booth at Bennington– until they saw the originals I had in mind.Quirky can be right and even amazing, but cheap requires caution.

**I hear this in my head as the refrain from a New Order song at least once a day. And then I sigh. But it’s true, and worth taking to heart without beating yourself up over it. You will survive whatever unfortunate yardage or pink-handled, blistered-inducing scissors you now regret. There’s always the office Yankee Swap or Goodwill.

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The Coats of August

07 Thursday Aug 2014

Posted by kittycalash in Clothing, Living History, Making Things, Reenacting

≈ Comments Off on The Coats of August

Tags

common dress, common people, common soldier, fashion, frock coats, Making Things, sewing, sewing project, style

Coat, Nantucket Historical Association, 1985.0068.001

I could have a coat problem so very easily. Look at that coat!

I was looking for something else when I came across this coat. Pity my friend who got the excited, “Who do you know on Nantucket?” text message, because after I saw this coat and couple others, I was checking out the high speed ferry schedules. (They’re not too great; I’d need to stay overnight at least one night– poor me, right?–which means this must be a winter visit.)

Once you’re hooked on 1812, it’s hard to travel back in time, but travel back I must, for Bennington is just a little over a week away.

What am I thinking? Well, in my madness and in the face of the enormous growth of the Young Mr, here I am thinking Coats in August.

Paul Sandby, 1731–1809, British, London Cries: A Fishmonger, ca. 1759, Watercolor and graphite on medium, cream, slightly textured laid paper, Yale Center for British Art, Paul Mellon Collection

Paul Sandby, 1731-1809, British, London Cries: A Fishmonger, ca. 1759, Watercolor and graphite on medium, cream, slightly textured laid paper, Yale Center for British Art, Paul Mellon Collection, B1975.3.210

I know, Bennington/Walloomsac is 1777, so why am I looking at 1759 coats? Because I’m thinking a short-skirted workman’s jacket for the kid, of striped linen, rather than another frock coat. My plan–such as it is– is to alter the  pattern I know fits him to make these shorter skirts…we’ll see how this experiment goes, and hope for fewer than six toiles!

By next Friday night, I need to complete:

  • One new coat, from a newly drafted pattern
  • One new waistcoat
  • New buttons for a waistcoat
  • Alterations to breeches including new buttons and new knee bands

That doesn’t seem so bad, does it?

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Projects and Deadlines

24 Thursday Oct 2013

Posted by kittycalash in Clothing, Events, Living History, Making Things

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

lists, plans, schedule, sewing project

Here’s what needs to be made, or that I want to make, in the coming months.

Yes, there is a tent on that list. Madness, but what a thing to make! There are also some wool items for November, because Fort Lee tends to be cold.

Project For Due Date Event
Red wool short cloak Kitty 11/22/13 Fort Lee
White shirt, coarse Young Mr 11/22/13 Fort Lee
Blue wool gown Kitty 11/22/13 Fort Lee
Red wool cross-bar kerchief Kitty 11/22/13 Fort Lee
“Quilted” silk petticoat Kitty 11/22/13 Fort Lee
Silk Sacque & petticoat Kitty 1/15/14 Grand Ball, Stetson Hall
Pocket hoops Kitty 1/15/14 Grand Ball, Stetson Hall
Sleeve ruffles Kitty 1/15/14 Grand Ball, Stetson Hall
Fancy cap Kitty 1/15/14 Grand Ball, Stetson Hall
Wool frock coat, 1770-1780 Mr S 1/15/14 Grand Ball, Stetson Hall
Silk waistcoat, 1770-1780 Mr S 1/15/14 Grand Ball, Stetson Hall
Plush breeches, 1770-1780 Mr S 1/15/14 Grand Ball, Stetson Hall
White shirt, fine Mr S 1/15/14 Grand Ball, Stetson Hall
Breeches or trousers Young Mr 4/18/14 Battle Road*
Waistcoat (striped, sleeved?) Young Mr 4/18/14 Battle Road*
10MA Regimental (1781) Mr S 4/25/14 BAR School of Instruction
Wool waistcoat (white, welted buttonholes) Mr S 4/25/14 BAR School of Instruction
Knapsacks Mr S 4/25/14 BAR School of Instruction
Tent Young Mr 6/1/14 Monmouth*
Kettle bag(s) Camp 6/1/14 Monmouth*
10MA Regimental (1781) Young Mr 6/1/14 Monmouth*
Wool frock coat, 1790-1800 Mr S 10/24/14 What Cheer Day
Breeches or trousers, 1790-1800 Mr S 10/24/14 What Cheer Day
Green wool Spencer Kitty none None
Shirt/chemisette Kitty none None
*Presuming it happens again

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Green Indeed

22 Tuesday Oct 2013

Posted by kittycalash in Clothing, Events, Making Things

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

10th Massachusetts, 18th century clothes, authenticity, common dress, living history, Revolutionary War, sacque, sewing project, Spencer

Regency Green: Kochan & Philips + Robert Land = Matchy-matchy.

As expected, Mr Najekci dispatched the K&C wool before the Hook, so last Thursday evening when I arrived home after Gallery Night, there was a box of delicious waiting for me. And, also as expected though mostly hoped for, the wool and shoes were super simpatico. This will be a fun project when I get myself sorted to it.

I have not yet had the time to put all the projects into a spreadsheet, but I think it would help keep things organized and on schedule. For example, I have:

  • to work out the details and rationale of the sacque, vis-a-vis date and style
  • to finalize the Spencer pattern
  • to pattern and fit a frock coat, waistcoat and breeches for Mr S ca. 1775
  • to ask about the regimental for Mr S, which will be wanted eventually
  • to face making a tent by next summer
  • a plan for kettle bags, since I’d like us to pack lighter & more authentically
  • to fix my stays situation
  • an inordinate desire for a splashy bonnet to go with that Spencer
  • two shirts to make up for Mr S and the Young Mr
  • a red short cloak, for easier movement

Once I have a schedule and a plan, making things by deadline is somewhat easier. It’s “bridge” season now, between cooling and heating, summer and winter fashion collections, and that’s as good a time as any to work out plans for the winter. There’s nothing the guys must have for an event that they haven’t got already–for Fort Lee, they can wear their short wool jackets under their 10th MA hunting frocks and be perfectly authentic and warm. (The brown and green coat is 1777, and the Fall of Fort Lee is 1776. The blue and white short-tailed regimentals are 1781. No coat for you!)

So it’s worth taking the time to regroup, even as I rush headlong into projects…and considering I have jury duty (no scissors!) this week, maybe I should add hand-knit stockings to that list.

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